A Winter Sun Delight

At the age of 18, I couldn’t think of anything worse than ‘being confined’ to spending a few days away with my family -and only my family. A girls’ holiday on the delightful Greek island of Zayknthos (also known as ‘ZANTEEE’ to most late teens) was more my scene.

How I’ve changed.

I’m fortunate that my parents still offer to take me on family holidays. Or, as I was told, my parents are the lucky ones that their daughters still want to go on holiday with them; that we actually want to spend time with them.

So what’s the point of all this ‘we are family’ talk? The joys of being spoilt in the winter sun, that’s what. And my recent family jaunt was to Tenerife…

Tenerife. An island that, for many, provides the same ‘Club 18-30’ environment as the aforementioned Zante. But this Isla Canaria has way more to offer.

Two weeks in Tenerife is actually quite a long time. Perhaps four days too long for a sun-worshipper like me if, as it often happens, Tenerife’s weather likes to tease you. The morning sun will promise a day of sunbathing yet by noon it is overcast and, oh-my-gosh-how-dare-it, the temperature has fallen to less than 20°.

So, in order to fill your time on those non-beach appropriate days, renting a car is a must.  For most undergraduate students, we just fall short of the required 25 years of age that allows you to drive abroad in Europe. A definite plus of a family holiday: you can leave the parents to deal with the driving and the subsequent stress of getting lost in a foreign country, while you just relax/sleep in the back seat. It’s not a big island, so driving around is simple and quick, allowing you to take full advantage of the plethora of activities Tenerife has to offer:

Golf:

This island has plenty of golf courses to choose from, with Golf del Sur one of the best. With mild weather all-year round, you can have a pleasant round of golf, whatever the season.

Marina at Golf del sur

Hiking:

The Teide National Park hosts many a guided walk or more rigorous hill walking expedition. An easier option is the Montaña Blanca, whilst the Guajara mountain offers a more difficult route.

Climbing a Volcano:

A special treat for hikers is Mount Teide, a stagnant volcano, rising to 3,718m – the highest point in Spain and indeed of all of the Atlantic islands. The odd, and exciting, element to this trek is that you walk upon warm, volcanic rock, reach down and feel the heat – I remember being so enthralled by this as a young girl that I took a few volcanic rocks home with me, to see how long they would retain their heat. Somehow I doubt young children would be allowed to carry out this same experiment now with all the weight restrictions imposed on these delightful budget airlines.

Kite/Windsurfing:

If you love either Kite-surfing or Windsurfing, El Médano is the place to be. A meeting point for water-sport lovers, travellers, and locals alike, this wonderful beach town comprises an eclectic mixture of people. A perfect spot to sit in a café and watch the world go by.

Kite-surfers and wind surfer’s paradise

El Medano Beach

Secluded beaches:

With a car, you can easily zip around the coast line, visiting several of the little beach towns. A couple of recommendations: Playa San Juan (near the town of Los Gigantes) and Palm-Mar (just round the coastline from the resort of Los Cristianos).

Rock formations at Costa Adeje

A rather useful fact to know: Tenerife is V.A.T free. This means alcohol is ridiculously cheap, as are cigarettes, if that is what you’re into. A restaurant-worthy bottle of wine is on offer in the supermarkets for less than three euros. No exaggeration. I spotted a bottle that features on the wine list at the restaurant where I work, and it was €2.50. That’s what I call outstanding value.

So, needless to say, Tenerife is a great place to visit with friends for a beach holiday. It’s a great place to visit with the family, packing your holiday full of drives discovering new places, or going on a family-bonding hike. It’s a great place for a golf trip, with guaranteed all-year round pleasant weather.

A bit of a misunderstood creature, maybe, it’s really just a great place, whenever you choose to go.

On the first day of Christmas my true love gave to me.... a bikini.

You know the run up to Christmas has officially started when the eagerly anticipated Coca Cola and John Lewis TV adverts are released. Wintery images fill the screen: falling snow, families sledging, everyone all bundled up in their hats, scarves and gloves. This is Christmas in the Northern Hemisphere.

But not everyone associates Christmas with low temperatures, mulled wine, and a turkey dinner. The few winter holidays I have spent with my family in Perth, Western Australia, have revealed an entirely different Christmas experience, far from the traditional don-your-cosiest-Christmas-jumper practice.

First of all, it is boiling. Ozzie summers can reach temperatures of way past 40⁰C (100⁰F), resulting in a much-needed Christmas outfit adjustment. Jumpers and woolly socks are the last thing you want to wear, with shorts and T-shirts, light dresses and flip-flops being more appropriate.

Secondly, forget the roast turkey. In standard Australian style, it’s all about the barbecue. Cooking the turkey outside, “on the barbie” is an integral part of the day – a few cold beers whilst the family gathers around the BBQ is the Ozzie equivalent of a glass of mulled wine next to the fire.

Once we have devoured the lunch, it is time for the family games. Not charades-no, but games in the swimming pool. Outside is generally where the rest of Christmas takes place, by the pool, under the sun, in bikinis. It really is quite a bizarre concept for ‘Christmas in the sun’ first-timers.  And this bizarreness continues into Boxing Day. It is possibly the busiest day of the year for Australian beaches, as traditionally everyone flocks down for a picnic, barbecue, swim and general chill-out. Quite different from the chaos that ensues over here on the first day of the sales!

The strangest part for me, however, is the Christmas paraphernalia. Oddly, the cards feature snowmen, reindeers pulling sleighs and Father Christmas in his traditional winter dress. Clearly, a picture of Santa in his swim shorts isn't as appealing.

Additionally, it is common for Australian cities to once again decorate their homes and businesses in tinsel to celebrate ‘Christmas in July’. Perhaps they want to experience a cold winters’ Christmas, but let’s be honest, a minimum of 10⁰C (50⁰F) isn't exactly chilly!

Personally, I’m a lover of winter sun. Of course, there is something comforting about celebrating the festivities inside your cosy home, but I think if I had to pick where I’d rather put my Christmas tree, I’d opt for Down Under.

MADRID: AN AREA GUIDE

Unlike other capital cities, Madrid is not a gigantic, un-personable city. Whilst its suburbs sprawl out for miles, Madrid’s city centre is approachably small: you can walk, with ease, from one side to another. This guide will take you through the main areas of the city centre, listing the top attractions and tapas bars in each. Because let’s face it, a tapas crawl is the only way to experience a Spanish city.

Sol

Puerta de Sol (‘The Sun Gate’) is the centre of the city, and indeed the whole country: in this square you find the ‘kilómetro cero’, the mark from which the country’s road network is measured. It is also the square in which many high-profile protests have taken place, such as those in May 2011.

Main attractions: 
- ‘El Oso y El Madroño’

the ‘Bear and the Strawberry Tree’ statue. This is part of the city’s coat of arms, and appears on almost everything in the city, from taxis to street-name plaques.

- El Palacio Royal (The Royal Palace)

A five minute walk from Sol, you will find the largest palace in Europe. Take a tour inside or just appreciate the beauty of its exterior and have a wander through its adjoining gardens, the Jardines de Sabatini.

The Royal Palace and the Sabatini Gardens

Where to eat/drink:
- La Mallorquina (C/ Mayor, 2)

Without doubt, the yummiest pastry shop in this area of Madrid, and trust me I worked my way round most of them. Established in 1894, it now has widespread fame and is renowned for baking the best typical pastries, such as ‘napolitanas de crema, o de chocolate’ (basically cream or chocolate filled pain au chocolats, and are very generous with the fillings). Either enjoy these tasty treats sitting by the fountains in the square, or sit in upstairs alongside the stylish madrileño grannies in the quaint tea room.

- Chocolatería San Gines (Pasadizo de San Ginés, 11)

Another famous eatery established in 1894, San Gines is known for its ‘churros con chocolate’. Open day and night, it provides a warming winter afternoon snack, or a drunken munch at 6am. Well worth a visit, even iconic celebrities are drawn here (proof is in the numerous framed photographs on the walls).

- Mercado de San Miguel

This indoor market hosts a variety of food and drinks stalls. Beautifully arranged fruit and vegetables stand next to wine vendors, cheesemongers or fresh seafood stalls. Popular with Madrileños, this is not just not a touristy site. A must see to either simply walk around, or come sample the goods for your lunch/dinner

Puerta del Sol taken over by protests

Huertas & Plaza Santa Ana

This is the city’s theatre quarter, once home to Spain’s Golden Age literary masters such as Cervantes and Lope de Vega. Starting from the beautiful Plaza de Santa Ana this area leads you down to the Paseo de Prado (the museum district) where you find Madrid’s largest train station, Atocha. Almost every establishment in Huertas is a bar, restaurant or cafe, lending itself to the perfect place to have a mid-afternoon drink, or spend a whole evening working your way round eating and drinking.

Main attractions:
- Museo de Prado (Paseo del Prado)

Think the National Gallery, transported to Spain. Expect to see over 8000 pieces featuring the likes of Goya and Velázquez.

- Reina Sofia (C/ Santa Isabel, 52)

This is the place to come and enjoy some contemporary and modern art, and have a peek at Picasso’s Guernica.

Where to eat/drink:
- Lateral (Plaza Santa Ana, 12):

This is one of two Lateral’s in the centre (the other is on C/ Fuencarral). Having possibly frequented here too many times, I still have a clear picture of the menu in my head – sad, I know. But really, the food is that good. Relatively cheap tapas and drinks served in quirky crockery makes for an enjoyable dining experience.

- Hotel ME by Melia (Plaza Santa Ana, 14)

This swanky hotel features a rooftop bar from which you can enjoy panoramic views of the city. Although prices are a lot dearer than those of the bars it looks down upon, it has been known to host some famous faces – Pippa Middelton was among their recent guests. So if celeb spotting is what you’re after, this is the place to go.

Chueca

This is the gay district of Madrid, and can be found just off the large main street, Gran Vía. Home to many clubs, bars and restaurants and full of boutique shops. Formerly a seedy area of the city, it has definitely revived itself as of late, but be warned: pickpockets are common in this area, so hold on to your dinero.

Main attractions:
- Calle de Fuencarral

This long street features interesting boutique stores, some high street stores, and one aesthetically and ambrosially amazing sweet shop: Oomuombo.

Where to eat/drink:
- La Panza es Primero (C/ Libertad, 33)

This is one franchise of ‘Panza’s’ across the city, with each featuring a different take on their ‘Mexican with a twist’ concept. Expect delicious Mexican food, bright decor, and a buzzing atmosphere.

- Outlet Bar (C/ Libertad, 16)

This is where to go on a student budget as they serve cheap, and I mean really cheap, drinks. This bar is renowned for their ‘jarra’ of Calimocho. Whilst Spaniards think a white wine spritzer is odd, a Calimocho-virgin may find this concoction of red wine and Coca-Cola a bizarre mixture. Trust me, it is much nicer than it sounds. And for 5 euros, Outler bar offers you a monstrous 2 litre jarra of this delightful stuff. Pennies…

View of Gran Vía from above

La Latina

This is the area to come if you want a plethora of choice for tapas. A sleepy area midweek, it comes to life on weekends – especially Sundays thanks to the weekly market.

Main attractions:
- El Rastro

Every Sunday people flock to La Latina to visit this weekly market. Selling everything from kitchenware to knitted scarves to antiques, there is a little something for everyone. Open from 9am-3pm, with the busiest time around midday. Another place to hold onto your bag – pickpockets are rife here.

Where to eat/drink
- Calle de Cava Baja

Go anywhere on this street and you’ll be sampling some typical Spanish tapas and vino. In fact, the best way is to start at one end, and work your way along the quaint street having a caña (a small draft beer) or tapas in each. You will not be disappointed. These tiny bars also have a cracking atmosphere during Spanish football matches – up there with one of the best places to watch a match amongst the locals.

Retiro/Goya

This is Madrid’s swanky area, where you can find the luxury boutiques, fancy hotels, and very well dressed Spaniards.

Main attractions:
- Parque del Retiro

The city’s largest park features a huge lake where you can hire rowing boats, several cafes dotted around the place, a ‘Crystal Palace’, and some recreational sporting grounds. Popular with walkers, joggers, and sunbathers alike.

Parque del Retiro

Where to eat/drink:
- Pastelería Mallorca ( C/ Goya, 6)

A delicatessen selling fresh tapas, cakes, chocolates and some delicious wine. Pop in for a browse, take away some delicacies, or sit in and indulge in some of their enticing produce.

With many more areas, attractions and eateries to choose from, this is just a sample of what Madrid has to offer. Go on, see for yourself…

The 'Do's and 'Don't's of Marrakech

Fancy joining the 9.34 million other tourists who visited Morocco last year? Boasting an intriguingly different culture to its European neighbours, Marrakech is becoming the new, fashionable place to go. Follow these ‘do’s and ‘don’t’s, and you’ll be sure to appreciate this fascinating city to its fullest potential, whoever you’re with.

DO stay in a Riad

Riads, which translate as guest-houses, are scattered all over the city. On researching where to stay, 478 Riads popped up on my search: a mind-boggling number of very similar looking B&Bs. They all seemed to feature tiled central atriums, courtyards with mini-fountains, beautifully decorated quaint rooms, and rooftop terraces with views overlooking the city. Ultimately, it comes down to personal preference – whether you choose to sacrifice a ‘plunge pool’ for a more central location, or an English speaking owner for a five-star review. I doubt, however, you could go wrong with whichever Riad you end up choosing.

A typical Medina Riad

Those in the Medina of Marrakech; a phrase used in many North African cities to mean, as it were, the city, centre are a tranquil paradise in amongst the bustling and chaotic streets. It is remarkable how, as soon as you step inside your Riad, you are met with a peaceful silence; a stark contrast to the noisy scenes outside.

If staying in the Medina is not for you, the Riads on the outskirts of the city are just as special. With the luxury of space, they can accommodate large pools and beautiful gardens, creating a mini-resort. Paired with the impeccable Riad-style service, this certainly is not a second-best alternative.

Djemma El Fna Square at sunset

DO enrol in a cooking course

Nowadays, there are endless cook-books which claim to introduce you to the world of Moroccan cuisine. There is nothing better, however, than experiencing the real thing, and learning from the natives themselves. Moroccan culture is so passionate about eating and cooking that it is almost infectious. From their intricate three hour process of making couscous (yes, they don’t share the same vision as us that couscous should be the simple five minute alternative to rice) to their constant drinking of sugar-loaded mint tea, it really is a fascinating cuisine. With tagines being the staple of both lunch and dinner – which have evolved very little through the generations – they really have mastered the art by now. We treated ourselves to the infamous ‘La Maison Arabe’ half-day cooking course, complete with a spice lesson, a crazy ‘dada’ (chef) and a delicious self-cooked meal in the luxurious hotel surroundings. It was definitely up there with the best meals of the holiday – just saying…

DON’T eat cold meat

On the topic of food, Morocco has the reputation for providing their tourists with a little unexpected something extra: the North-African version of ‘Delhi Belly’. Unfortunately, I have yet to meet someone who survived a trip to Marrakech without at least one of their party succumbing to a dodgy stomach. If you are travelling on a student budget and thus cannot eat in your Riad/hotel each night, it is almost inevitable. Not because the establishments deliberately serve you dodgy food, but purely because hygiene standards are lower than what we generally are used to.

Things to avoid:
- tap water
- orange juice from the stalls in Djemma El Fna square
- uncooked fruits and vegetables (those you cannot peel)
- meat that is not thoroughly cooked through

Meat is large part of Moroccan cuisine, so it would be a shame to avoid it completely, and on the whole it is cooked perfectly in tagines or couscous. Just beware of the grilled meat like kebab meat. The grills are not the most effective cooking appliance, producing often only half-cooked meat, and kebabs may have been lying around for a while before being served.

DON’T leave your haggling skills at home

You cannot visit Marrakech without visiting the souks: the intertwining, never-ending markets that can only be described as a labyrinth, where overly enthusiastic traders try to lure you into their colourful and full-to-the-brim stalls. With endless leather goods, spices, lanterns and shawls on offer, you are inclined to buy everything you can get your hands on. But beware: these traders love a tourist. You can see the cogs in their minds going into overdrive when you near their stall: a Westerner = inflated price. Haggling is a must. Bargain until you cannot bargain any more – half, even a third of their original offer and then walk away. Nine out of ten times this trick will work and they will lower the price.

DO visit the High Atlas Mountains

The beauty of Marrakech is its proximity to the High Atlas Mountains. Travelling to the Ourika Valley or one of the mountain villages (Ouirgane, Asni or Imlil), allows you to truly experience what this area of Morocco has to offer. The landscape is stunning: impressive mountains oversee a verdant valley dotted with thriving little villages and cascading waterfalls. Toubkhal, the highest mountain in North Africa, provided the backdrop to our stunning hotel, the Kasbah du Toubkhal. Treks up to the top of this summit take two to three days from the  bustling village of Imlil, but with a huge variety of trek lengths and levels on offer, there is a suitable hike available to all those who are willing.

Looking down to Marrakech from the High Atlas Mountains

Sun sets over the High Atlas Mountains

DON’T expect a booze-fest

Being a Muslim country, Morocco tends to be alcohol-free. If you’re lucky, your Riad may provide a small selection of locally produced beer or wine, but on the whole, alcohol is hard to come by. In the Medina it is almost impossible to find a bar or restaurant that serves a cheeky pint or G&T, with mint tea being the preferred drink. So if you’re looking for a booze-up, turn your thoughts to neighbouring Spain, where the vino flows left, right and centre.

Imlil Valley

Marrakech is undoubtedly one of the most intriguing places I have visited recently. Following this advice, I’m sure you will soon share in my enthusiasm for Moroccan culture.

A villager walks home over a dried up river bed

Respect Your Elders: The Reality of 5th Year

Picture the scene. My wait at the Union bar is marginally less enjoyable than usual – of course I’m squashed from every possible angle, but this time by the repellent burly ‘gentlemen’ next to me in bizarrely colourful jackets. As I yell my order to my friend at the bar, a vodka concoction finds itself on top of me, leaving behind a delightfully sticky trickle down my back. A slightly inebriated guy leans on me and slurs, “Do you need a dad?” to which I reply, rather curtly, “No, thanks, I’m good." “You’re not a fresher?” he asks, somewhat surprised. “Ehh, no. Try a 5th year!” I yell back, “(you twat)”. . 

Yep, that’s right, 5th year. No wonder I am no longer ‘laaving life’ in the glorious Venue One. I am old. Not in terms of age, at a youthful 22, but in terms of university lifespan, I am most definitely old.

Freshers' Week is no longer appealing. Tesco is no longer somewhere to avoid on a bad hair day. I can now walk down Market Street – phone at the ready - in case the texting trick is needed when I see someone I don’t want to/have time to talk to. Boots is now embarrassment-free.

It’s weird.

The number of students who reach fifth year at this University is really rather small. Medics - nope. Undergrads - nope. Masters students - well at least it sounds better when you tell people why you’re here for another year.

I guess I am part of a minority. My sector: language students. We burst our bubble to teach English to a bunch of little Juans, Jean-Pierres, Giovannis or Svens. Life was rather delightful – working minimal hours and traveling Spain on a stupidly good salary was pretty darn sweet. It seemed like the best way to go about my degree. I just really didn’t factor in the notion that I’d be spending half a decade at university, with only anundergraduate degree to show for it. My friends at Edinburgh Medical School will have earned two-thirds of their stethoscopes before the time I’ll have learned to read and write in a second language - a skill that probably half this student population already have anyway.

Now, don’t get me wrong. Yes, this Old Feeling ain’t fun. But it’s not the worst thing in the world… at least I actually have some sort of structure in my life, something to do. Many of my now graduated friends have no structure; their job these days is to find an actual job. Having no idea where the feck my life is going come May 2013, I’ll embrace this ‘old’ feeling. 

Maybe my relative age will even cause those wise enough among you to listen to this time-tested piece of advice: next time you're stumbling around the Union, thinking you're a big man because your proverbial balls have dropped and you can finally become a dad, it is probably best to not give anyone you are trying to chat up a vodka shower.Trust me on this one, I'm a 5th year.